Salutare. Dupa cum am estimat, si dupa cat am sapat pe net, si nu am gasit nimic dar absolut nimic, despre pini si cum s-ar putea lega un cooler Comair 039565 TC1VK12KOP , mi s-a adeverit ca intradevar nu exista absolut nici o informatie disponibila. (English version is down on this page)
Tot ce am gasit au fost niste informatii generale, despre circuitele lor,
http://www.comairrotron.com/methods-monitoring-fan-performance
si cu cablajul de la cooler desfacut in fata, am inceput sa identific modulele si tensiunile aferente. Mare grija pentru ca coolerul este cumva capsat, cu niste saibe care o data introduse, nu prea mai pot fi scoase. Exista riscul sa rupeti din prinderi, cum de altfel am patit si eu cu doua din ele. Mai bine nu il demonta, si citeste mai jos cum sa legi firele pe mufa DB9. Au mai ramas doua fire pe care nu le-am identificat, dar probabil ca nu ma intereseaza ce fac acele fire. Respectiv firul portocaliu de la pinul 6 si firul alb de la pinul 2. Naiba stie ce semnale mai intra sau ies pe acolo. Probabil temperatura sau ceva, cine stie. (daca le dibuie cineva sa lase aici un comentariu)
Asadar am procedat la demontarea unui cooler, avand 4 disponibile, sa vad ce si cum se leaga firele la mufa DB9 disponibila.
Cand i-am dat de cap, si am 'figurat' cum se leaga, am pus un filmulet pe youtube.
Zilele trecute, am primit pe https://www.facebook.com/radiofarafiltru/ un mesaj de la o persoana care a gasit filmuletul pe youtube, si probabil are aceeasi problema ca si mine: nu stie cum s-ar putea lega firele la acest cooler.
Cooler de altfel foarte misto ca si constructie, robust, cu rulmenti, si foarte puternic (2 amperi la 12 v).
Ca sa nu mai lungesc povestea aiurea, si sa ma indexeze google cum trebuie la relevanta, #Cooler Comair 039565 TC1VK12KOP pinout , Cooler Comair 039565 TC1VK12KOP schematic
Sa nu dea naiba sa radetz de cum desenez... hihihi
Lamuriri suplimentare:
in principiu treaba e simpla. pinii 5 si 9 se leaga impreuna la - de la alimentare, pinii 3 si 7 se leaga impreuna la + . de la pinul 4 pleaca o rezistenta in serie de 150 ohmi , la cursorul unui potentiometru de 1Kohm . capetele potentiometrului se vor lega unu la + si unu la - de la alimentare. Daca prin rezistenta de 150 de ohmi ii dai mai mult plus ( + ), pana spre maxim, coolerul va creste in turatie. daca ii dai spre minus ( - ) cursorul, coolerul va scadea in turatie.
De asemenea cooleru-ul Comair 039565 TC1VK12KOP dispune de un circuit open collector (? oare) pe pinul 8 de unde poti culege o masa (un semnal dreptunghiular de - ) care fluctueaza o data cu turatia, respectiv o iesire de tahometru.
Pinul 1 este - minusul de la ledul de pe cooler. Am pus de la pinul 1 o rezistenta de aprox cred rosu, alb, negru, negru, maro. :)))) http://www.bertys.ro/codul_culorilor_rezistente.htm catre pinul 7 despre care va spuneam ca este o masa flotanta de la tahometru. Si asa am obtinut un led clipitor in functie de turatie. Evident la turatie mare, se vede ca si cum sta aprins, dar el de fapt clipeste. Daca ar fi fost filmat cu un shutter speed mai mare, poate s-ar fi vazut cum clipoceste. Ledul se poate vedea doar la turatie mica cum palpaie. (like doh. evident)
Sper ca am fost destul de lamuritor, si acuma o sa incerc o traducere cu google translate, poate imi iese cat de cat. :)))
English version: (whit google translate :)))) )
Howdy. As
I estimated, and after digging the net and finding nothing but nothing,
about pins and how a Comair 039565 TC1VK12KOP cooler could be
connected, it was true that there was absolutely no available
information.
All we found were some general information, about their circuits,
http://www.comairrotron.com/methods-monitoring-fan-performance
and with the cooler wired to the front, I began to identify the related modules and voltages. Take great care because the cooler is somehow sliced, with some sabers that once entered, can not be removed. There is a risk of breaking from the grip, as with two of them. Better not dismantle it, and read below how to link the threads to the DB9 plug. There are two threads that we have not identified yet, but I probably do not care what those yarns are doing. That is, the orange wire at pin 6 and the white wire at pin 2. The hell knows what signals are coming in or going out there. Probably the temperature or something, who knows. (if anyone dabes to leave a comment here)
So I did dismantle a cooler, having 4 available, to see what and how the wires are connected to the available DB9 plug.
When I screwed up, and I figured 'how it binds, I put a movie on youtube.
Last days, I
received a message from a person who found the movie on youtube on
https://www.facebook.com/radiofarafiltru/ and probably has the same
problem as I do: he does not know how the threads could be linked to this cooler.
Cooler is very cool as a construction, robust, with bearings, and very strong (2 amps at 12 v).
In
order to keep the story alive, and to index google as it should to
relevance, #Cooler Comair 039565 TC1VK12KOP pinout, Cooler Comair 039565
TC1VK12KOP schematic
Do not be damned if I like how I draw ... hihihi
clarifications: in principle, the job is simple. pins 5 and 9 bind together to - from power supply, pins 3 and 7 bind together at +. at pin 4, a 150 ohm series resistor comes out at the 1Kohm potentiometer cursor. the ends of the potentiometer will tie one to + and one to - at the feed. If by 150 ohms resistance you give more plus (+), to the maximum, the cooler will increase in speed. if you drop it to the minus (-) cursor, the cooler will drop in speed.Also the Comair 039565 TC1VK12KOP cooler has an open collector circuit
on pin 8 where you can pick up a rectangular minus signal that
fluctuates with the speed or tachometer output.Pin 1 is - minus the LED on the cooler. I put from pin 1 a resistance of roughly believe red, white, black, black, brown. :)))) http://www.bertys.ro/course_result.htm to pin 7 I'm telling you that is a minus tachometer float. And that's how I got a blinking led according to the speed. Obviously at high speed, it's as if it's lit, but it's actually blinking. If it had been shot with a higher shutter speed, it might have been seen flashing. The light can only be seen at low speed as it flashes. (like doh. obvious)
I hope I was pretty clear, and now I'm going to try a translation with Google Translate, maybe it will understand :)))
Have a nice day, and check also www.radiofarafiltru.ro / https://www.facebook.com/groups/tractorase/?ref=bookmarks / https://tunein.com/radio/Radio-fara-filtru-s277449/
Many thanks!
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